Wednesday, January 27, 2016

Anchor Down... for a Month

We began 2016 with a New Year's Day sail to Tenacatita, not far north of Barra de Navidad.  We have been here now five times over the last three years, and this time we remained almost a month.  That kinda says it all about a place, when you have the option to pick up and move on, but you don't.   
This is a place that greets you each morning with a compelling reason to stay.


Sure, you could find someplace where there's Yoga on the Beach, like the hotel at Barra de Navidad...


...but it turns out they have Yoga here in Tenacatita too!


And here, you can explore the crystal clear water from your paddle board.


Or climb up the mast for a view of the bay....


...and neighbors.

Here, we still have contact with the outside world so we can chat with friends and family.

And, like the hotel at the marina we left behind, here we have a pool...


...and this one has steps leading right up to our home.


Yes, that hotel pool had a swim up bar, but it turns out there's one here too!


Sometimes we play games.  The pelicans like to engage in staring contests...

... and they always win.  It's not fair, really.  They can even look at you with their backs turned.

Tenacatita is not one of those isolated anchorages you have all to yourself.  In season, you'll share the anchorage with two or three dozen boats.  It's big enough to take a hundred or more.

Everyone finds their own way to enjoy themselves.

It's a large community of cruisers.  In fact, Tenacatita has a Mayor. 

 Robert Gleser and his wife Virginia have been coming to this bay aboard their ketch HARMONY so long (at least 14 years) he's the undisputed man in charge.

Every Friday, the Mayor holds a pot-luck dinghy raft-up.  
Dinghies and kayaks start to appear at 5:00 PM.

Everybody ties up to other boats wherever they can...

...and soon delicious food appears and is passed all round.

Each week the Mayor directs boats to introduce themselves and share something according to that week's theme.  

There are daily bocci ball games on the beach, and these guys are good.

Then there's the palapa where you can cool down with a beer and catch up on how to fix that broken thingamabob, learn about far away cruising destinations others have visited, and make friends that could last a lifetime.

If you need a break, you can take a trip to the nearby town of La Manzanilla.  We were invited to join friends Mark and Deanna aboard their beautiful catamaran Speakeasy for a hike to a fresh water pool in a box canyon.

After coffee and sticky buns at the bakery/restaurant in the town square, we started up a dry river bed which gradually got more dense and rocky and the canyon walls started closing in on us...

...then we found the water...

...which we crossed to get to the final pool...


...not there yet...

...almost!

Though the path was well worn, we had the canyon to ourselves...

...like nobody knew this was here.

We were rewarded by a deep pool of crystal clear fresh water that was at first very cool, but so refreshing.

Back at the beach at la Manzanilla they serve margaritas!

Last year in Tenacatita a pair of porpoise paid a visit.

And this year we saw two porpoise again, first from up on the mast

They seemed to like hanging around Moonshadow...


... right under our bow.

It didn't seem like they were after the abundant food here.  Rather they were just playing.


Eventually John took his camera underwater to find these two had discovered our anchor chain...


...and were using it as their personal massage parlor...


...and seemed to enjoy rubbing their chins...


...and dorsal fins.


After coming to the surface for a breath...


...they both cruised by for a look at John...


...just beyond arm's reach!


On the morning radio net, several cruisers arranged to help with clearing the jungle route to Tenacatita Beach.  The jungle route is an inland passage through thick mangroves that winds about two nautical miles to a lagoon behind the beach to the west of our anchorage.  Three years ago it looked like this:


But earlier this year, Hurricane Patricia took a heavy toll rendering the western half of the passage completely impassible.


So ten cruisers and a three Mexicans went at the mess in two pangas with chain saws and machetes.


The process was simple really:  Cut everything that didn't connect to a human body; pile it up into the panga until nobody could move...


...dispose of the cuttings along the canal where we could.

Repeat.




This work makes it now possible for cruisers to dinghy or kayak all the way to the other end where Mexicans are re-opening beach palapa restaurants, and for panga operators to provide tours through the jungle passage.  Win win!

With our work done, there was nothing to do but return to Moonshadow to enjoy the scenery.


And the view of our back yard.


Eventually the full moon rose over old Mexico to remind us we'd been in this spot for nearly a month.


So it was time to pull up our anchor and return to La Cruz where we'll reunite with cruiser friends, and welcome friends from home for a visit, then prepare for our upcoming voyage to the South Pacific.














Thursday, December 31, 2015

In The Blink of an Eye






Reminded yet again how important it is to treasure each day and every one in your life, we woke up to the tragic news that John's old dear friend Jamie Cooper has passed away in his sleep after Thanksgiving.

Jamie wasn't one to let a day go by with nothing to show for it.  He could be counted on to say yes when an opportunity for adventure presented itself.

So over our lives, Jamie and John spent many such occasions together in far away places...

...building fond memories...


Together, Jamie and John could laugh, cry, talk and listen.  It was a friendship we both cherished.

Good bye old friend!


We flew home for Jamie's memorial which gave us the chance to see old friends including our sweet Casey who is about to turn 16...










...and visit Luscomb's point  to throw some pennies in the surf.


It was a fine day for carving up the waves
























Back in La Cruz, Mexico, we installed our crow's nest pulpit on the lower spreader.  Deb was the first to head up the new mast steps for a go.




From here, we will be able to spot coral heads in the South Pacific lagoons.


Thaaar she blows!!


Next we sailed off to nearby Punta Mida with several other cruisers participating in the Banderas Bay Blast.

Once anchored, we sat and watched the perfect point break going off.


The beach at Punta Mida has several restaurants, one of which serves as the clubhouse for the Punta Mida Yacht and Surf Club.  


Last year, we became lifetime members of PMYSC, and Deb was Commodore...

This year, as with all years, all memberships were revoked.  Then all ex-members who made a donation for the local children's school were reinstated.  This meant being re-initiated, so it was our turn to get swatted by the new Commodore.


Even the ex-Commodore had to take her turn.  All for a good cause.


Next morning we discovered that John has become such a great fisherman, he can catch fish in his sleep.  This is not a flying fish, but a Sierra that was not ready for solo flight.


Later the fleet sailed off for Puerto Vallarta Yacht Club while we remained anchored in Punta Mida enjoying the beauty.

63 foot custom catamaran Profligate

Soon we were off for Barre de Navidad, about 150 miles south, in company with Janabanana, a 58 Meridian owned by friends David and Jan.


Cabo Corrientes, which can get windy and rough was behaving nicely.

Along the way, we had another freeloader stowaway, who at first seemed startled to be photographed.


But quickly ignored the Moonshadow crew...



Then seemed to ask: "Are you still here"

John finally had to use the rake we fly from the masthead to keep frigates off Moonshadow to scare this uninvited guest off!



After an overnight in Chamela, we spend a couple of nights in Tenacatita which had taken a direct hit from Hurricane Patricia a few months back.  Conspicuous were the many missing palm fronds...

...which were in lush abundance the year before.

But Mexicans seem to take such things in their stride, and with the new palapa top the restaurant on the beach was back to normal.

We took a ride up the lagoon with Jan and David


And happened upon other friends Nick and Jan kayaking for some bird watching.

And there are plenty to be seen along the five miles of lagoon canals.



Next stop was Barre de Navidad where there is a well protected marina adjacent to a five star hotel.


Moonshadow and Janabanana tied to B dock running air conditioners full blast!


One of the treasures of Barre de Navidad is the French Baker who delivers fresh croissants, baguettes,  and other delights from his bakery right to your boat.

The other attraction here is the pool at the hotel, which is actually three pools connected by water slides.  This gets everybody acting like kids...

...which in turn reminds us we're not kids anymore!


But then there's the swim-up-bar, which sets everything right!


So we can leave Barre de Navidad on New Year's Day, ready for a month of exploring mainland Mexico's many beautiful anchorages and coves, grateful for each day.